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Nail Salons, an interview with Dr. John Yost

Alison Powell
May 4, 2022

Nail salons. At their best, they’re a haven to relax and enjoy getting a much-deserved mani/pedi. At their worst, they are a breeding ground for bacteria and infections like nail fungus.

In my quest to understand once and for all whether nail salons were safe to frequent, I sat down with Dr. John Yost, a board-certified dermatologist and Caratin doctor who also runs the Nail Disorders Clinic at Stanford.  Dr. Yost gave me a run-down of what to look for - and what to avoid - when visiting nail salons. I also got a chance to check out his gel dip mani – so clearly, he’s not just an expert on nail health, he’s also got his eye on the latest nail trends.  

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AL: Dr. Yost, thank you for your time today. Given your position as the Director of the Nail Disorders clinic at Stanford, what's your stance on nail salons?

Dr. Yost: It's important to be cognizant of what we are looking for in nail salons. My patients want to know how they can safely get manicures and pedicures. While nail salons are not bad, there are practices that can significantly safeguard against getting nail fungus and other infections. I want my patients to be aware of the things they can proactively do in terms of mitigating risks.

AL: Like?  

Dr. Yost: There are 3 main things to do and look out for to have a safe and enjoyable salon experience:  

  1. Bring your own tools. It’s easy to purchase them at a beauty supply store.  
  1. Avoid pedicures with a footbath with whirlpool or jets, as the tubing carries bacteria. Look for standalone foot basins with a plastic liner.
  1. Ask your nail technician to avoid pushing cuticles. Indeed, the goal is to avoid any manipulation of tissue around your nails. Ask them to not clean or scoop underneath your nail. Why? Any cleaning or manipulation increases the risk of infection.  

AL: Oh wow. I wish I knew all this before. I’ve enjoyed many a whirlpool pedicure and always thought I was ‘safe’ with the plastic liner, but never considered the jets. Wow.  

Dr. Yost: Yes, it’s the tubing you must watch out for: always look for salons with standalone foot basins.  

AL: Another question on my mind… is wearing nail polish harmful to the health of your nails?

Dr. Yost: I get asked that a lot… about whether nail polish is good or bad, and whether nails need time without polish to ‘breathe’. That’s fake news… your nails don’t need breathing room because they don’t need to breathe. Healthy nails don’t need breaks in polish unless there’s problems in terms of brittleness and fragility. I’m fan of nail polish. I’m not a fan of gel polish because of the UV exposure, but regular polish and powder dip polish are great options.

AL: Can a patient cure nail fungus with topical treatments AND still wear polish? Based on what I’ve read, that doesn’t seem possible since you’re applying the topical daily on bare nails.  

Dr. Yost: As my mother used to say to me, “Choices, John, choices.” And in this case most of my patients do have a choice. If you’re treating fungus topically with products like Caratin’s, you can use nail polish for a special event, BUT it must be removed immediately after. If you keep the polish on your nails, the topical treatments won’t be able to penetrate beyond the polish to reach your nails. What actually will cause damage to your nails is not the polish, but the polish remover, especially for patients who suffer from fragility, so reduce use to no more than 1-2x month.

AL: Got it – so it’s possible to use nail polish on special occasions, a bit like lipstick, but if I remove it immediately. Any last words of wisdom you’d like to share?

Dr. Yost: Nail salons are not bad, and it is possible to enjoy them safely with these practices to lower your overall risk of infections. Make sure to bring your own tools, avoid footbaths with whirlpools and jets, and ask for buffing and filing your nails without any manipulation of the tissue around (that means no cutting or pushing cuticles). If you’re able to find a nail technician who can come to your home safely, that’s even better.

AL: Thank you for your time, Dr. Yost!  

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